If you’re driving through Arizona and looking for a place to get out and stretch your legs, the Petrified Forest and Painted Desert offer short walks and great views.

The Painted Desert

Of all the places I’ve visited on this trip, Arizona was the one where I could see myself living. When I left Sedona this morning I wasn’t yet ready to leave Arizona and on a suggestion from my father, I planned to stop in the Petrified Forest on my way to Santa Fe, New Mexico. After I relinquished all expectations of the park, I was able to enjoy this stop on my trip.

Petrified Wood in Black and White

Before arriving, I had envisioned a forest with towering trees much like the great Sequoias of California. When I pulled into the parking lot by the Visitors Center and saw miles of desert and bone dry sand I couldn’t help but feel disappointment. My father had told me about an exhibit in the Visitors Center years ago– a collection of letters and petrified wood from people who had stolen from the park and, with a guilty conscience, returned the precious wood. I wasn’t able to find the exhibit, if it still exists, and both Visitor’s Centers were mostly souvenir shops.

I underestimated the amount of water I had remaining in my Camelbak from Sedona and when I realized what little was left, I assumed I’d be able to fill up at a fountain in the forest. My disappointment bordered on desperation when I realized there weren’t any fountains and the concession area sold only soda, ice cream, and other sugary drinks. I resorted to the half-liter of water that has been sitting in the passenger side of my 100+ degree car since Kansas.  I figured BPA poisoning from the plastic container would be a lesser evil than dehydration.

I glanced over the free map and planned my stay. I could explore for about three hours and still be able to make it to Santa Fe before the sunset.

Along the Giant Logs Trail

I intended to begin at the Long Logs Trail, but started by mistake at the Giant Logs trail– a short loop by the I-180 entrance. Home to some of the largest pieces of petrified wood, this loop is logical place to begin your tour of the park.

The Non-Trail I Took by Mistake

After finishing the short Giant Logs loop, I wandered across the parking lot in search of the Long Logs Trail and saw the small brown sign by the concession and souvenir shop. After a week hiking through national parks of the southwest, I immediately assumed that the sand covered in small patches of grass was the way to go. I weaved around the plant-life for a few minutes before descending down the small hill onto flat ground and what appeared to be a road of sorts. The parched sand crunched beneath my shoes. It looked as though it hadn’t been walked on since the prehistoric age. I tried to tread a lightly as possible and not disrupt the precious ecosystem around me.

Sand Structure along the Trail

The trail information promised a petrified Pueblo after a mile of walking. I glanced at my watch figuring I’d just time my footsteps since there weren’t any signs. I passed beautiful multi-colored mounds of sand, pieces of petrified wood, rocks both large and small, and long walls of hardened sand with small trees and plants blooming forth against the odds. I had to resist collecting a few pebbles. My father had warned me that due to theft there are random vehicle inspections upon exiting the park and the ranger on the way in had told me there would be trouble if I tried to take anything out with me. Something in his tone told me that there would be more than a fine to pay.

Life in Unlikely Places

Thirty minutes down the sandy road I still hadn’t seen a sign, another form of life, or remnants of the Pueblo. There was a large, colored mound of sand in the distance, but the longer I walked the further away it seemed to get. I decided to turn back to my car. Just as I was about to head back under the bridge by the start of the “trail”, a park ranger drove over, slowing down to eye me suspiciously. I half expected to be met and questioned when I climbed back over the sandy hill toward the parking lot, but didn’t see them again. Back in my car, I started driving down the main road and realized that the Long Logs trail was actually a paved sidewalk on the side of the road. I’d been wandering around on what was probably restricted lands the whole time.

Path through the Petrified Forest in Black and White

The second expectation that I had to let go of was the thought that I’d be able to hike around and see most of sites. The Petrified Forest would be more accurately characterized as a scenic byway than a national park. Aside from the trails by the south entrance and another called Crystal Forest, every other point along the 28 mile stretch of road is a parking lot with photo opportunities.

Petrified Wood from the Crystal Forest

I walked the Crystal Forest trail (this time I actually stuck to the paved pathway) and was in awe of the giant logs that had turned to beautiful shades of stone. The Crystal Forest is home to the most colorful stones and well-worth the short walk to see the pieces up close. My only complaint was that much of the wood is spaced out so that you’re often walking by feet of sand and grass before seeing another piece of wood. A sign at the entrance explained that so many pieces had been stolen over the years that this small pathway was all that was left. I still haven’t come up with an explanation for why if the amount of petrified forest has been greatly reduced, the gift shops in the park and surrounding cities are filled with petrified wood souvenirs. If the bookends and boulders really were authentic, why were they so readily available for purchase?

Jasper Forest

I stopped several more times along the remainder of the stretch of road through the Petrified Forest and into the Painted Desert. Although I didn’t explore all of the turn-offs, I did see the Teepees, beautiful colored, cone-shaped sand structures, Jasper forest– a valley of time-carved sand, a few overlooks for the Painted Desert, and remnants of Route 66.

Vintage Car Along old Route 66

If you plan to visit the Petrified Forest, leave your expectations of trees on the trail and you’ll enjoy a scenic view of desert shapes and wood turned stone that inspire and awe.